The truth about cashmere - Clearing Up Common Misconceptions About Cashmere
I was very fortunate to be gifted a pure cashmere poncho from one of the UK's leading luxury stores, I mention no names but you will be familiar with the brand - however I was quite shocked that it started to pill very quickly and excessively in the first few days. Very disappointing !
From Christmas to the end of March, the fabric is now covered in pills - see main image.
Here at Purl English, we use the very best quality of pure cashmere, spun in the UK, which uses the higher calibre longer and finer fibres and although there may be the very occasional bobbling the fibres in our premium quality yarn stay largely intact.
The truth is that the finer, longer fibres are softer and less prone to pilling.
Companies selling inferior quality will try and tell you otherwise.
We thought our customers may appreciate a few more myth busting facts to clear some of the misconceptions around cashmere to help you make informed decisions when investing in cashmere.
1. Pilling: A Natural Occurrence, Not a Quality Flaw
All cashmere will pill to some extent due to friction. It's a normal part of wear, especially in areas like underarms. However, excessive or rapid pilling suggests the use of shorter, less durable fibres.
2. Cashmere vs. Angora: A Matter of Species
It's important to clarify that cashmere is exclusively sourced from cashmere goats. Angora, a similarly soft and luxurious fibre, comes from angora rabbits. They're distinct materials from different animals.
3. Ethical Harvesting: Caring for the Goats
Contrary to some beliefs, responsible cashmere harvesting doesn't harm the goats. The process involves hand-combing or shearing during their natural spring shedding. Ethical practices ensure the goats' well-being.
4. Understanding Cashmere Grading: Beyond Marketing Claims
You might encounter terms like "Grade A" cashmere, but there's no official, industry-standard grading system. These are often marketing terms. Cashmere quality is assessed by colour (white is valued for its versatility in dyeing) and fibre diameter (finer, longer fibres are softer and less prone to pilling).
5. Cashmere's True Origins: Beyond Italy
While Italy is celebrated for its exquisite cashmere garments, the raw material primarily comes from China and Mongolia. These regions' harsh winters are ideal for cashmere goats to develop the long, fine fibres we cherish. While cashmere goats are also found in places like New Zealand, Australia, India, Iran, Turkey, and Afghanistan, their production is comparatively smaller.
6. The Ideal Cashmere Feel: Softness That Develops Over Time
Cashmere naturally softens with wear. If a garment feels excessively soft right away, it might have been over-washed or chemically treated, potentially reducing its lifespan. A slightly slippery feel after touching it can also indicate chemical treatment. The best cashmere will soften naturally over time, and is made up of long fibres.
7. Cashmere Care: Hand washing is Your Friend
While dry cleaning is an option, hand washing is often gentler on cashmere. You don't need specialised cashmere shampoo; baby shampoo works well. While some machines have wool settings, hand washing is the best way to maintain shape and longevity.
8. Cashmere's Versatility: Year-Round Comfort
Cashmere's natural breathability (hygroscopic properties) makes it suitable for all seasons. It regulates temperature and wicks away moisture. Ply (the number of yarn strands) affects warmth; lighter 1-ply and 2-ply items are ideal for warmer weather.
9. Caring for Longevity: Washing is Essential
Regular washing is essential for cashmere's longevity. Unwashed cashmere is vulnerable to moths, which can cause damage. Gentle hand washing helps preserve its quality.
10. Ply and Quality: Understanding the Difference
Ply indicates the number of yarn strands twisted together. 2-ply cashmere is stronger than 1-ply. Higher plies add warmth and weight but don't necessarily equate to superior quality.
11. Cashmere's Value: An Investment in Comfort and Durability
While cashmere may be pricier, its benefits—lightness, softness, strength, insulation, breathability, and moisture-wicking—make it a worthwhile investment. With proper care, it can last a lifetime.
12. Ironing Cashmere: Gentle Precautions
Yes, you can iron cashmere. Use a clean iron on a low or wool setting, and turn the garment inside out.
13. Pashmina: A Cashmere Derivative, Not a Superior fibre
Pashmina is a type of textile, often made from cashmere, traditionally from specific regions of India, Pakistan and Nepal. It's not inherently superior to other cashmere. The term is also often used loosely to describe shawls made from various fabrics.